Vermicomposting – Using Worms To Build Your Soil

Maybe you have heard of vermicomposting maybe you haven’t, but it is a fun and easy way to turn kitchen scraps into amazing soil in a short amount of time, with very little work. Give vermicomposting, or composting with worms, a try this spring. You will be surprised!

Photo courtesy of Lazy Worms Supercharged Red Wigglers

Composting can seem intimidating, and maybe feel like a costly endeavor to take on for some gardeners. Maybe you don’t have the space or don’t like the look of a compost bin in your backyard. Or maybe it feels like a waste of time. Vermicomposting takes all of those doubts and turns them upside down and into soil in no time.

Here’s How It Works:

Worms are scavengers and they like their home to be cool, dark, and moist. When you provide them with those three things plus something to eat, they will work day and night turning organic material into a nutrient rich soil that is perfect for your garden beds, containers, and pots. This process only takes around 8 weeks from start to finish, so you can have soil in no time!

Keep Their Home Cool

To start, their home has to be cool. This means that you will probably want to keep it in a sheltered location like the garage or laundry room. THE LAUNDRY ROOM? Yes! This method of composting is super discreet, so you never have to worry about smelling the worms or even seeing them. That is because their home just looks like a bin of Christmas decorations. Yep, the ideal worm bin is simply a tupperware bin that you have laying around. We prefer a 35 gallon bin, with a lid, as our ideal size. Use a quarter inch drill bit to drill holes around the top of the bin, NOT IN THE LID where water can get in, for optimum air flow. You can see in the picture below how to drill the holes. I forgot to take pictures of ours when we built it, but this is exactly how we did it.

Photo Courtesy of Homestead and Chill

Keep Their Home Dark

Think about it. Where do worms live? Underground. So you want to mimic that environment for them. It needs to be dark. The easiest way to give your worms a dark domain is to make sure you use a colored tupperware bin. This will not only keep it dark, but also help it stay cool and moist. All things worms love. And as a bonus, because the bin is not see through, nobody will ever know what you secretly have stored in it.

Keep Their Home Moist

This is really important. Too wet and the worms will drown because they breathe through their skin. Too dry, and they will dry out and die as well. You want your bin to keep the consistency of a wet sponge. By using a spray bottle or the sprayer at your kitchen sink, this job is super easy. Each week when you add food for the worms, check the feel of the soil. If it doesn’t hold together when squeezed in your hand, add some water. More on this below.

Setting Up Your Worm Bin

So, you have your tupperware bin, and you are ready to go. Perfect. In about 30 minutes, you will have a working worm bin. It is that easy.


Bedding for your worms is the first order of business. We use a combination of potting soil, coco noir, and paper shavings to create the bedding for our worms. This combination doesn’t have to be exact, but the three ingredients are important. The potting soil provides sand and grit for the worms that they need to digest the scraps. The coco noir is loose and fluffy, so it helps the bin retain moisture, and the paper shavings or newspaper clippings give the carbon element that is needed to give the worms energy. They will eat the bedding too, so you will have to replace it occasionally. We usually add a handful of “browns” (small piece of cardboard or paper bags, newspaper clippings, or shredded newspaper) to the bin each time we add food scraps. It keeps everything balanced, and just like in a traditional compost, the browns help to balance the high nitrogen content of the scraps or “greens” we are adding when we feed them.

This is the bedding in a new worm bin we just built.

Tip: Coco noir is sold in bricks that must be rehydrated in order to be used. I place the brick in a shallow bin or bucket and spray it with the hose until it begins to break apart and crumble. Remember, you want a moist bin, not a soggy one. When the coco noir begins to crumble, take it out of the water and work it with your hands in your bin. When it is too hard to break again, place it back in the water for a few minutes. Repeat this process until it is completely crumbled. If you leave it in the water for too long, it will become soup and won’t be usuable.

Food For The Worms

After your bedding is in the bin, the next step is to add food for your worms. This process is simple. Form a small well one corner of the bin. Then take kitchen scraps like vegetable peels, fruit, veggie scraps, egg shells, and coffee grinds and place them in the well. Easy right? That is all you do. Now the next time you feed your worms (anywhere from a few days to a week) you will feed them the exact same way, but on the other side of the bin. This keeps them moving from side to side week after week adding air to the bin as they move along.

Here I added lettuce, sweet potato peels, an apple core, and coffee grinds for food.

Tip: Never use meat, dairy, citrus, or sweets in your worm bins. They don’t balance the bin well and are hard for the worms to break down. Remember that we are what our animals eat, so feed the worms well. And always chop your scraps into small pieces. The smaller the pieces the easier for the worms to digest and the faster the process gets done.

Adding worms

Once you have the bedding down and food in place, it is time to add your worms. You can get worms locally or buy them online at Uncle Jim’s Worm Farm. We have done both with great success. To get started you will want to purchase between 500-1000 worms. This is a mistake that most people make, and that I made on our first, second, and third worm bins we built. Adding 10 worms is only going to create a nasty mess inside your bin. They can’t eat the scraps fast enough, so bacteria and fungus finds its way in and will overtake the bin in a very short amount of time. Worms will not overpopulate an area, yet they will double their population in no time, so don’t worry about adding too many. 500-1000 worms is a good place to start. When you add worms for the first time, place them right on top of the food pile and cover it all up. This will help your worms get right to work and not have to spend time trying to find the food source when they are first introduced to their new home.

Building a worm bin is a great way to get kids interested in gardening. They love the worms!!
Here we are adding worms to our new bin.

Tip: When buying worms, always choose Red Wigglers. This is very important because they are surface eaters and will devour their body weight in no time. This is the perfect worm for your bin.

Maintaining The Bin

Now all that is left to do is put the lid on the bin and let the worms go to work. Easy huh? They will begin devouring the scraps right away, so check your bin every couple of days and see how things are going. If the bin looks dry, give it a spray of water. If the food is gone, add more.

Keep your scraps in the kitchen and add them to your bin about once a week, or as needed. Mostly, you will be feeding the worms once per week. But check the bin every few days to make sure that they haven’t devoured their last meal already. If they have, just add more.

When you feed your worms, it is also a great time to get the air circulating in the bin. Mix all the bedding with your hands before adding the food. This allows you to see what has been eaten at the same time. You can see if you need more carbon or “browns” and then dig a well again, and bury it just like you did during start up.

Mixing the bedding for our new worm bin during the Wild Child Explorers Club

Tip: If there is a fair amount of food scraps left when you check the bin after a week, add less scraps than you added the first time. You can also add more coffee grinds to the bin as a little bit of an energy booster for your worms. The coffee will get them moving, just like it does for us in the mornings!

Harvesting Worm Castings

After a couple of months, you will begin to see that your bin is filling up with dark, rich castings. Castings is just a nice way of saying POOP! Yep, worm poop is the gold of the garden. The easiest way to harvest the castings is to begin a few weeks ahead of when you want to harvest and just start feeding your worms on one side of the bin only. Almost all of the worms will migrate there to eat, leaving one side of the bin worm free…or almost.

When you are ready to harvest, scoop out the finished castings from that side only. Then go through the castings and remove any rogue worms that may have been left on the wrong side of the bin. If you hitch a few stragglers who end up in the garden, that won’t hurt a thing. They will become useful residents in no time.

After you harvest the castings and put the runaways back in the bin, spread the bedding that is left back across the whole bin, adding more “browns” if needed, and start the process over. The only difference is that this time, you will probably have more worms. That is because worms can double their population in 90 days. So, at the very least, you will probably have more than you started with. That means you may want to add more scraps to the bin each week to keep them happy.

Give the bin a good misting if it needs it, and the lid goes back on. Now you can add those castings to your garden, potted plants, or containers around the yard. These little guys do a lot of work in a short amount of time! You will love them!

Thank You

When you give the gift of garden design, you give a gift that keeps on giving. For generations!

Check your email, as all of the information for this gift will be sent there within 24 hours!

Thank you again for your purchase! I look forward to dreaming and growing in the new year!

Preparing For A Frost

While worms and slugs and even pesky critters can and will do extensive damage when they pay us a visit, nothing will wipe out a garden faster than an unexpected frost or a dip down into freezing temperatures when you aren’t prepared.

Here are The Veggies That You Have To Keep An Eye On When Temperatures Drop

  • any newly planted tender seedlings
  • tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, squash, cucumber
  • basil, mint, warm season herbs
  • pumpkins
  • okra
  • beans

I put together a quick guide to have on hand for those chilly nights to see what needs to be done in the garden with all the different veggie we grow! Click HERE to grab the guide. Save this frost guide to help you remember how to handle the dropping temperatures this season, and begin making preparations for covering them now, not the day of the freeze warning. With a first frost date usually falling in late November for most of South Louisiana, we need to get a plan to protect our hard work.

Remove Summer Veggies

If you have veggies from the summer still growing strong in your garden, it is time to remove them. Their fruit will be mushy if there is a frost, whether they are covered or not, so don’t give them any more time. Instead, plant something for the cool season in their place where your production will be so much more. Below are some ideas!

How To Protect The Garden From A Frost

The most uniform way to protect your vegetables from a frost is to cover them. Your brassicas, leafy greens, and root vegetables are all frost tolerant, so no need to worry about them, but the tender seedlings and newly planted transplants should be protected on those frosty nights.

If you garden using the wild child method, your beds are very diverse and have a symphony of veggies, herbs, amd flowers all growing together. Because of that, covering the entire bed will be the most effective way to protect your produce.

Use a lightweight cloth like this, or just plan to cover the entire bed with a bed sheet. Sleeping bags work well too. This may not be the most beautiful way to protect the babies, but it will work.

Here are 3 things to remember:

First, when using a sheet you will have to uncover the garden the following morning to allow them to get sunlight. Too long under the sheet and you will have other problems aside from the frost.

Second, the sheets cannot touch the plants, so you must carefully place items in the garden that will give some height to the beds and keep the sheets from touching the leaves. I recommend doing this by place inverted pots or baskets into the garden bed, over some of the tallest plants and then draping the sheet over the bed.

Third, secure the sheets! Frosty nights often begin by windy afternoons. As you are tucking in the garden before dark, remember to secure the sheets to prevent them from flying away and exposing your babies underneath. This can be done with any heavy object you can find.

My garden last year on the first frosty night. 11/30/20

If this seems to be a little bit tacky, I can totally see why, there are other, more tidy, options as well. They cost a little more than the free sheets in your linen closet, and they are less work, but they look a whole lot better.

Use Frost Tunnels

Frost tunnels are an investment, but they are easier to work with, and they look a whole lot better during the cold months. One other benefit is that you don’t have to rush out to uncover each morning. In fact, they can remain in place for the duration of the frosty temps and simply be removed once the weather warms. This is a great alternative to bed sheets and a first choice of many of the clients I work with.

You can purchase everything you need at your local nursery, on Amazon, or here is a handy DIY option for you as well to create your own frost tunnels.

I hope this has been helpful to you. While there is no easy answer to a frosty night protection measure, now is the time to get set up for success. Your plants will thank you by continuing to grow and thrive, even when the conditions make it less than ideal.

Make Room For Tulips In Your Wild Child Garden

If you don’t want to add tulips to your backyard garden, I am not sure if we can be friends. I am just kidding, but I really, really, really want you to give tulips a try this season. I learned the trick to growing tulips about 5 or 6 years ago from a gardener friend of mine in North Louisiana. He encouraged me to try it, and asked me what I had to lose? He suggested I buy a box of them from Home Depot my first year to see how I liked it. I did. He walked me through planting and all the confusion of “refrigeration” periods, and I have never looked back. I cannot imagine not planting tulips in the fall, and I hope after you learn how to grow them, you won’t be able to imagine it either.

Tulips Basics

Tulips are grown primarily in Northern climates with very long periods of cold. We don’t have that here in South Louisiana, but we do have refrigerators, so we are in business. Tulips are refrigerated because our Louisiana winters are not cold enough for long enough to allow them to bloom properly without additional chilling. These bulbs should be refrigerated at least six weeks prior to planting, which means you need to have your tulip bulbs in the refrigerator NOW!!

Where To Buy Tulip Bulbs

For your first year growing tulips, I will give you the same advice my gardening friend Mr. Harold gave me…get some from Home Depot. They cost around $10 and have been in my garden for years!! They have a nice variety to choose from, and they have served me well.

I also have some online companies that I love to order from that I will link for you below. Beware, the options are much more than Home Depot, so you could get yourself in trouble. Remember your available space and how much of it you want to devote to tulips this year. Don’t get alot of bulbs that you won’t plant.

Here are my favorite online companies to order from

Breck’s Bulbs

Breck’s Bulbs come straight from Holland, OH MY WORD! They can really get you in trouble. I love to dream on their site though!! They have great reviews. Don’t pay attention to the gardening zones and how they say that tulips don’t grow here. Watch and see baby, is all I have to say about that!

Breck’s Bulbs

Holland Bulb Farms

Holland Bulb Farms is also another great source! They are a family owned business and are based in Milwaukee, WI. The farm was founded by Dutch immigrants in 1975. This website can also get you in trouble. There is so much to choose from.

Holland Bulb Farms

One Thing To Consider When Buying Bulbs

Tulips look better when planted in masses or groups rather than single rows. Plantings are also more dramatic when one or just a few colors are used. If several colors are used, they look so much better when planted in small groups of individual colors within the larger planting. If you purchased your bulbs prepackaged in mixed colors, you don’t have any choice of the colors and will have no way to group individual colors. Remember that. I don’t recommend buying the mixed colored bulbs. Instead, I like to buy bulbs in single-color packages and mix them the way I want them instead.

I am also a huge fan of mass plantings of one color. My first year, I planted only white, pictured below, and I absolutely fell in love!! I have added other colors since then, but white is still my favorite!

Got Your Bulbs, Now What?

The best bloomers come from pre-chilled bulbs that are planted into the Louisiana garden in late December or early January. So ordering bulbs in late October to get them in refrigerator by mid-November is ideal. You will need them in the refrigerator by early December, so get yours now!

Without 6 weeks of refrigeration, you have little chance they will bloom properly. So, as soon as you get your bulbs, place them in a paper or plastic bag punched with holes and store them in the refrigerator for six weeks or more. Don’t place bulbs near apples because they give off ethylene gas, which causes bulbs to rot.

After 6 Weeks of Refrigeration You Are Ready To Plant

If you take nothing else from this content, hear me on this. The best blooms are obtained when pre-chilled tulip bulbs are planted into the Louisiana garden in January. Here’s why: For one thing, the soil is too warm until late December. Planting your bulbs in soil that is still too warm can cancel the chilling process and lead to the bulbs blooming poorly. That is not what we want at all!! We want heavy bloomers, right? Also, bulbs planted earlier bloom earlier – as early as February – and the weather is so unsettled at that time that the flowers are more likely to be ruined by freezes and winter storms. Tulips planted in late January generally bloom in March and April when the weather is much better for blooming flowers.

Where To Plant your tulips

Plant tulips in sunny to partly shaded areas that have good drainage. Drainage is really important for all bulbs, but especially those that are in the ground during potential freezing temperatures. Plant your bulbs into beds that have been generously amended with organic matter and a light application of fertilizer.

How To Plant Your Tulips

Here in Louisiana we don’t plant spring-flowering bulbs as deeply as is recommended on the plant label. Remember, we are breaking the rules a bit to grow tulips here. We have tweak the system. Plant your tulips about 5 inches deep, just with their little tip sticking out of the soil. And space them about 2 inches apart.

There is a trick to planting tulips that you want to know. Look carefully, and you will see that one side of the bulb is flattened. Plant the bulbs so that the flat side faces the outside edge of the raised bed or container that you are growing in. The first leaves the bulbs send up will then all face the outside, and it looks so much better!! The first year I grew tulips I didn’t know about this trick, so I spent the entire season wondering why they were all growing in different directions.

how to care for your tulips

Just keep the soil moist and enjoy the show. You have given them all they need to thrive. As long as your spot is sunny and drains well, your tulips will be gorgeous. Enjoy! Below are some tulips from last year in window boxes in my backyard. They are the best!!

Storing Bulbs For Future Seasons

The down side to growing tulips here is that they can’t stay in the ground all year. Bummer! The summer months allow the bulbs to reproduce, but we can’t have it all, I guess. So, we will take what we can get and be glad!

We will have to dig up the bulbs and store them indoors for the summer and fall. Here’s how to do it:

Lifting Bulbs

It is best to lift bulbs after blooming is finished. Then gently spade up the bulbs, being careful not to cut into the bulbs/tubers and damage them.

Drying Bulbs

Store bulbs in a well-ventilated, area until they are dry. I like to lay them in a single layer on a cookie sheet and leave them on the patio until they are dry. And, just let the leaves remain on the bulbs until they become dry.

preparing bulbs for storage

The bulbs should be dried for about a week before you prepare them for storage. Pull any loose any remaining foliage, shake the bulbs gently to remove any clinging soil, dust them with a fungicide powder like this to prevent rot. Then place them in unsealed paper bags or old nylon stockings with some dry peat moss to keep the bulbs from touching one another. Store them away from sunlight in a cool, dry place until next October when you can put them back in the refrigerator.

I hope this helps as you get ready to grow bulbs for a beautiful spring show of color!!

Is This An Emergency?

Fall is an amazing season. All of nature is slowing down, shedding the old, and preparing for the new. And as beautiful as it is, it may not always look glamorous. In fact you may be thinking there is something wrong in your garden or with your chickens. I hope these most common “emergencies” will help you relax a little, so you can enjoy this season and all it offers. It is the most beautiful season of all.

My Chickens Are Losing Their Feathers

Whaaaat?? You mean like this?? Poor Johnny Cash looks like he has been in a bar fight, and the entire coop looks like a murder scene. Feathers everywhere! It will definitely scare you the first time you see it.

Actually though, it is completely normal. The autumn season is molting season for chickens, and believe me it gets worse before it gets better. But it is completely normal, and a good thing.

As soon as the daylight hours start decreasing, the birds begin preparing for winter, and that requires a new coat…of feathers that is! They will lose most of their feathers and take a break from egg laying to put all of their energy into feather growth. And when it is all over, they will look fabulous!!

Some Things You Can Do

Extra treats like meal worms, raisins, and other sources of good proteins will really boost their feather re-growth and get them back to normal as soon as possible. You can also change their feed to one with a higher protein content as well to help their bodies recover more quickly.

A typical molt lasts about a month or so, so in no time, your flock will be back to normal.

My Chickens Stopped Laying Eggs

My Ameraucanas were the first to stop laying this year. I haven’t seen a blue egg in months. But it will be the greatest gift when they pick back up.

Remember, this time of year is a rest period in nature. It is a time where all the earth slows down. That includes egg laying.

Once daylight hours begin to decrease, your flock’s egg production could slow down tremendously. This is their bodies’ way of resting. And, in my opinion, we should let them. Honoring their natural cycle instead of putting lights in the coop to trick them into thinking there is more daylight, is a much better option. Pushing their bodies to the limit isn’t good for your flock, and it really doesn’t accomplish much. Your egg production is still going to slow down, and chickens only lay so many eggs in their lifetime. So, it is less eggs now, or less eggs later. Also, eating seasonally is soooo good for your body. Our bodies feel the need to slow down too. Let’s listen to them and take this season to rest. And we will let our chickens rest too.

Some Things You Can Do

Love your babies well while they look raggedy and aren’t laying. Let them freeload for a few months, and you will be blown away at how they repay you in the spring.

Bring them treats like meal worms and warm oatmeal on a cold winter morning and enjoy their beauty. Before you know it, they will be back to normal.

One other way I love to keep egg production steady, even through the winter, for the clients I curate flocks for, is by adding new hens in the summer. By adding new layers at the end of the season, many times they will start laying right before the daylight hours decrease, and they will keep right on without slowing down. Also, it is helpful to remember that first year birds don’t molt, so you can keep collecting gorgeous eggs during this season of slow.

My Veggies Are Dying

It may not startle you to see the leaves change on every tree in sight, but let those summer veggies start dropping leaves and it is full panic. I know! I feel the same way!

Summer veggies love the heat, the sun, and the long days of summer, so once the days begin to shorten and get cooler, they begin to fade. It is so bittersweet, especially when you have green tomatoes, basil spilling out of every bed, and cucumbers on the vine. But is the natural cycle of nature and one that is really beautiful if you see it correctly.

Some Things You Can Do

Thank your garden and cultivate a gratitude for all that grew there by removing spent veggies immediately and begin the food saving process if you’d like. Make pesto like crazy and freeze it for later. Fry those green tomatoes or pickle them. Chop all the peppers and put them in the freezer for the winter. Make some salt or oil infusions with all the lemon balm and basil and rosemary you may have. It is a beautiful process, and it reminds us how the seasons change. The cycle of nature is so healing.

Here is a link to some of my favorite ways to use all the mint you might have in your garden right now.

My Cool Season Veggies Have Damaged & Discolored Leaves

Our newly planted broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage are like new born babies to the wild child gardener. We love them and want to make sure that they are perfect in every way. The problem is that in nature nothing is perfect. And we typically figure that out pretty quickly. Before we can even water our newly planted seedlings for the first time, the leaves start changing color, and the pests seem to find them. Here is a link to a post all about cool season pests and how to get a hold on them early. But is this an emergency? Will our babies ever recover? It is definitely not an emergency…yet. It could turn into one left unchecked, but at first sight of munch marks, the plants are fine. They are wired to grow in their DNA, so they can handle a little munching here and there. The emergency comes when the munching is not dealt with promptly and the plant loses all its leaves to slugs or worms, or worse a rabbit or deer.

Once the plant no longer has leaves it can’t perform photosynthesis and therefore can no longer live. This is an emergency. And sadly, one you can’t bounce back from. The only option at this point will be to replace the plant and hope you have the days needed to get a harvest. This is why it is so important to get ahead of pests in the cool season. We are up against the clock, and you know timing is everything in the garden. By working now to prevent pests of all kinds, you can save your plants and help them get to harvest.

Some Things You Can Do

Get busy right now! The most important thing you can do is not delay. Cool season pests are easily treatable, and most are preventable, but if you wait too long, it will be too late. Instead get busy now! This post will help…so will making sure you are in the garden every day. Make time to visit your veggies. It will change the course of your garden. Daily garden observation is the key to staying on top of damage this season. So get out there. You know who else it is good for?? YOU!!

My Veggies Aren’t Growing

This is one of my garden beds the day I planted it. It has grown so much in just a few weeks. Keep scrolling to see her now!

I hear this more than any other concern both from the garden club members and the students it the Wild Child Kitchen Garden Academy. It is by far the biggest question in my inbox from clients of gardens I design as well. And I sometimes wonder if I’m doing everything right too. We want them to show off. We have done all the things right, and we just want to see them succeed! If you think your veggies aren’t growing fast enough, it probably isn’t the emergency that it seems to be. But it could be. To be sure, you need to ask yourself a few questions!

  • Did I test my soil and amend accordingly, before I planted?
  • Am I growing the correct veggies at the correct time? (Tomatoes planted now probably won’t grow.)
  • Have I made sure to carefully space my veggies and plant them next to companions that they like and keep them away from those that may be toxic to them and cause them not to grow?
  • Am I keeping my veggies happy with consistent moisture and mulch? You cannot underestimate the importance of these two things!

If the answer to these questions is “yes” then you can rest assured that your veggies are more than likely going to be just fine! You probably just haven’t given them enough time to get growing.

Some Things You Can Do

This is the exact same bed only three weeks later. Notice some things didn’t make it. Others took off and some have had a slow start.

First, remember that cool season veggies love cool season temperatures. We are just beginning to see them, so that could definitely be causing some things to have a slow start.

Second, if you didn’t test your soil or amend it to replace nutrients that were used last season, you are selling yourself and your garden short! Healthy soil = Happy plants. You cant overestimate this!! Get busy building your soil. And in the mean time, use a high quality organic feed and beneficial mycorrhizae to hold you over. These two things will greatly improve the quality of your soil in the short term while you work to improve the quality of the soil for the long term. When purchasing mycorrhizae for an existing garden, always choose the soluble product. And use the code “WILDCHILD” to receive 15% off your order!

Third, keep them watered, but not too much. Huh? Yes! Make sure your veggies have consistent moisture without overwatering. We do this by giving them a moisture test before watering. It’s simple. Just stick your finger down into the soil, and if it comes out dry, it’s time to water. If the soil sticks to your finger a little and has some moisture to it, no watering for the day. Overwatering is one of the worst things you can do to a plant. And it is so easy to do. Give the moisture test to make sure they need the drink first.

I hope that these not so scary “emergencies” help give you confidence as we enter into my favorite season. The weather is nice, the pests are few, and it is the perfect time to start your backyard vegetable garden and flock of chickens. I can help!! It all starts with a consult!! Book yours today and let me show you how wonderful it is to release your inner wild child. I promise it will heal your soul!

The Broccoli Garden

This garden plan is perfect for the gardener who is excited about growing broccoli this season, but may need a little help with the planning side of things to get the most of out the space. This plan incorporates broccoli and plenty of companions to grow along with it! There are also favorite cool season herbs included as well. There are distinctions between which plants should be transplanted as plants and which prefer to be seeded directly into the garden. These vegetables are easy to grow and yield a large harvest for the space they require. All plans are based on the standard garden bed size of 4′ x 8′. If you would like to have a custom bed designed specifically for your space, click here for a wild child garden consultation and garden plan drawn just for you.

Wild Child “Print and Plant” garden plans are a great way to begin your backyard garden journey with confidence. If you are ready to begin gardening like a wild child, this plan is perfect for you.

This sample plan shows how many vegetables, herbs, and flowers you can grow in just one bed when you understand the backyard garden symphony. Purchased plans will show actual plants. This plan is just a sample.

Once your purchase is complete, you will be re-directed to a download of your plans immediately, so you can print and plant today! Once you garden like a wild child, you will see gardening completely different. It is truly a feast for the body, the mind, and the soul.

Cabbage Garden Plan – $29.99

You May Also Like:

Enjoy Weed-LESS Gardening

Weeds can be such a pesky problem in the garden. As the weather begins to heat up, you might begin seeing more and more of them. Weeds are huge competitors for nutrients and will prevent your veggies and beneficial microbes living under the soil from getting them, when you work so hard to provide only the best to your soil and plants. They also grow much faster than any vegetable, so they will quickly crowd out your veggies, and you will be growing weeds before you know it.

But it doesn’t have to be this way! In fact, when you garden like a wild child, you can enjoy weedLESS gardening. You will literally weed less. It is one of the many reasons the backyard garden symphony is so great!!

The reason wild child gardeners weed less is because weeds are a good indicator of how things are doing down below. They are a thermometer for your soil. What is coming from the soil tells us what is going on inside of the soil. This is important to remember in gardening as a whole, but weeds are a great way to gauge how things are looking down under. If you are seeing weeds, it doesn’t necessarily mean disaster, but there are several simple things to begin putting into practice in your garden to keep weeds at bay and improve the quality of the soil and your plants.

What is coming from the soil tells us what is going on in the soil.

Plant Companions

Planting herbs in the garden like mint that like to take over the space they’re in is a great way to get a handle on weeds. Herbs are beneficial to the vegetable garden, but one way that you may not have thought about is how they will help suppress the weeds by giving them nowhere to grow.

See the picture above? There are no weeds in this bed because of the companions that are growing wild underneath the tomatoes. The tomatoes shade the roots of the companions and the companions cover the surface of the soil, making it impossible for weeds to thrive!

One reason we work so hard on our soil is so that it can support more plants than a traditional garden can. The more plants that can be supported the more you can grow, and the more you can grow, the less space the weeds have to come in. They can’t take over if there is no place for them.

We plant basil as a companion in many of our beds.

Practice No-Tilling

We talk so much about building the soil. Tilling destroys all of our work by disrupting the soil structure. Remember, there is a whole world underground that is living and thriving. We want to leave it as undisturbed as possible. Also, when turning over the soil, the weed seeds from the previous years could get moved to the surface where the sunlight will bring them to life. Not good!

Consistent Weeding

Each and every day, look around the garden and get rid of any new weeds you may see coming up. If you pull them when they are small, they do not have time to “go to seed” which in turn will make lots more weed babies for you to deal with. It also means that the plant will never produce seeds, which can live in your soil for the entire season and pop back up next year. Daily weeding is very important as the weather heats up. Don’t let this important part of your garden routine get by you.

Homemade Organic Herbicide

Sometimes you need a little extra help, especially in garden pathways and borders. When you don’t want to use any kind of chemicals in your garden, this homemade herbicide works wonders. This solution dries out the weeds, so it is only recommended to be used on sunny days, not on plants that are in the shade, and only when it isn’t going to rain. Use this solution as often as needed to get rid of stubborn weeds OUTSIDE OF THE GARDEN BEDS.


  • 1 gallon white vinegar (5%)
  • 1 cup table salt
  • 1 tbsp. dish soap


Mix ingredients into a spray bottle and spray directly onto weeds. Be careful not to get in on any plants you want to keep! Only use in garden pathways and borders. DO NOT USE IN THE GARDEN BEDS!


If you have stubborn weeds, one way to eliminate them once and for all is solarizing. We have the worst weed ever called Turbo Grass. It is grown in pastures for feed and is indestructible. Some made its way from the pasture next door to our garden and we have had a time with it ever since. Solarizing is the only method we can find that will get rid of it once it starts.

To solarize, you need a large tarp and warm weather. The best time to solarize is right after you pick all of your summer veggies, when you are letting the beds rest before planting for fall. June or July is perfect. All you do is lay the tarp (or garbage bags if the area is small) on top of the beds and seal with bricks or something heavy. This creates an oven that literally cooks the weeds inside and eliminates them for good. Remove the plastic 4-6 weeks later when the weeds are brown and dead. Sometimes this method is the only thing that will work to eliminate weeds in an area. And it works. The picture below is of some rows that we had to solarize this spring. The weeds were so bad that we couldn’t even plant in them. Consequences of not staying on top of the weeding can be pretty harsh. It is always better to tackle the weeds when they are manageable instead of letting them get out of control. Ask me how I know…..

Keeping weeds at bay will become one of the most important garden jobs as the season goes on. Getting a handle on them early is the best way to tackle them.

And remember, what we see coming out of the soil is a great indicator of what is going on inside the soil. In the wild child raised bed garden, we see very few weeds. I may spend 10 minutes a season picking weeds. If you are fighting troublesome weeds, you may have a bigger problem with soil health!

This month only my online course Wild Child Soil Building is open! Get all the details HERE, and sign up to get your soil right before planting for the next season.